Celebrate snow in this mining town turned ski resort in the Colorado Rockies

I've always thought of Christmas as an all-or-nothing phenomenon: Either do it right--with a decked-out tree, caroling, the works--or don't do it at all (tropical getaway, anyone?). That's why I was thrilled to happen upon Breckenridge over the holidays last year. Set beneath the Tenmile Range in the Colorado Rockies, the former mining town has all the essentials for a perfect Christmas: a spectacular mountainside setting, a remarkably pristine historic downtown, a whole host of holiday-themed activities, and--most important--snow.

"Everyone associates snow with the holidays--and we always do have it," says Maureen Nicholls, a longtime Breckenridge resident and unofficial town historian. "It's practically guaranteed."

That's great news not only for skiers, who classify Breckenridge's slopes in the same league as Aspen's and Vail's, but also for those to whom the holidays mean snow-covered streets and horse-drawn-carriage rides. In other words, if you're dreaming of a white Christmas, Breckenridge is the place to go.

Pretty as it is in summer, this is a town that transforms like Cinderella upon the first snowfall. In this oldest continually occupied community in the Colorado Rockies, where nearly 200 19th-century buildings stand little influenced by the 21st century (local ordinances prohibit the most garish emblems of modernity, such as drive-through restaurants), snow is like a magical gown. It softens rooftops and chimneys and mutes the sound of cars, making Main Street seem like something out of an old-fashioned picture book.

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Cashing in on this natural advantage, the ski town has turned Christmas into a month-long extravaganza. During the week leading up to Christmas, there are concerts and holiday parades. A new 38,000-square-foot indoor ice rink has just been completed, adjacent to the ever-popular outdoor rink on Boreas Pass Road. There's even a catered dinner at the 1896 Briggle House, complete with period entertainment.

But the really big day around here is December 9, when the town tree is lit. A caroling procession marches along Main Street to Blue River Plaza, where the lighting takes place against a backdrop of snowcapped mountains. According to Nicholls, in the 1960s the tree used to be set up each year next to the Gold Pan Saloon, a local institution that continues to dole out drinks and good cheer. Nicholls recalls, "One year we had to drag Santa out of the saloon to light the tree."

Santa may have cleaned up his act since then, but the holidays in Breckenridge still spell snow and merriment. It's the kind of place sure to make even a Scrooge praise a white Christmas that never disappoints.

Breckenridge travel planner

Breckenridge is in Summit County, 90 miles west of Denver via 1-70 west to State 9 south. A free town shuttle hits all the major attractions, including the ice rinks; look for signs around town. Area code is 970 unless noted.

Holiday attractions

Lighting of Breckenridge. Events begin at 9 A.M. and run throughout the day. At 6, a caroling procession departs from Daniel's Cabin (309 N. Main St.) and ends at Blue River Plaza, where the tree is lit promptly at 6:30. December 9.

Stephen C. West Ice Arena. Public skating at adjoining indoor and outdoor rinks. Call for hours and to ask about the ice show planned for December 15. $5 indoors, $4 outdoors, $3 skate rental. 0189 Boreas Pass Rd.; 547-9974.

Victorian dinner at the Briggle House. The lavishly decorated home is the setting for a four-course catered dinner including a house tour and appearance by historical legend Molly Brown. Reserve tickets ($60 per person) as far in advance as possible. December 16. Call the Summit Historical Society (see "Contacts").

Dining

Blue Moose Restaurant. This is exactly what every high-end resort town needs: tasty, hearty, reasonably priced breakfast and lunch basics served in a casual, friendly atmosphere. Breakfast, lunch. 540 S. Main; 453-4859.

Cafe Alpine. The seasonal menu has a contemporary, multiregional flair. You might find Rocky Mountain trout with smoked corn and tomato succotash, or blackened New York strip steak with jalapeno-cheddar grits cakes. Dinner. 106 E. Adams Ave.; 453-8218.

Hearthstone Casual Dining. Housed in a charming old Victorian, Hearthstone is perfect for cold winter nights, with hearty entrees such as granola-crusted elk, crab-stuffed trout, and slow-roasted prime rib. Dinner 1305. Ridge St.; 453-1148. Poirrier's Cajun Cafe. Bob and Connie Poirrier came from Louisiana to open this authentic Cajun eatery in 1988. Their bread pudding, served with cream and brandy sauce, is justifiably legendary--and the red beans and rice aren't half bad, either. Lunch, dinner. 224 S. Main; 453-1877.

Lodging

Most visitors stay at the big modern properties at the base of the slopes. Below are some good choices; for reservations and additional recommendations, call Breckenridge Central Reservations at (888) 533-9882. Lodge & Spa at Breckenridge. Luxurious accommodations plus a full-service spa and health center in the hills above town. From $275. 112 Overlook Dr.

River Mountain Lodge. Short-term condominiums and hotel rooms in the heart of the village. From $89 (rooms), from $149 (condos). 100 S. Park Ave.

Village at Breckenridge Resort. A somewhat utilitarian-looking, large-scale resort where most accommodations are ski-in/ski-out. From $175 (rooms), $220 (condos). 535 S. Park. Bed-and-Breakfasts. For a more intimate lodging experience, call Central Reservations for B&B recommendations. There's a trio of especially charming properties, two of them dating from the 1880s, right in the heart of the historic district. Bed and Breakfasts on North Main Street: from $119. (800) 795-2975 or www.breckenridge-inn.com.

Contacts

Breckenridge Resort Chamber. Best source for details on holiday-related events. 311 S. Ridge; 453-2913, (888) 533-9882, or www.gobreck.com.

Summit Historical Society. Stop by the headquarters to pick up self-guided-tour brochures. 309 N. Main; 453-9022.

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